Just realised looking at my list of posts, I have written about 40 cheeses - so I am half way to "around the world in 80 cheeses". Here's to 40 more.
Bt once I get to 80 I'm going to keep on counting, because there are so many different cheeses to try. I will definitely have to plan on really focusing on the "world" part of it, and get out to taste some cheeses in interesting locations.
Friday, November 22, 2013
Thursday, November 14, 2013
#40 - Kikorangi Blue cheese
Kikorangi has to be one of my all-time favourite
cheeses. It is a New Zealand classic,
and consistently wins awards at the New Zealand Champions of Cheese
Awards. It was Champion of Champions in 2011, and over
the years has also won numerous gold medals, Champion Export Cheese, and
Favourite Cheese Award (by public vote).
Image from www.kapiticollection.co.nz |
Kapiti Cheeses was originally set up in 1984 by Ross
McCallum and Neville McNaughton on the Kapiti Coast, when artisan cheese in New
Zealand was in its infancy. Ross and
Neville were pioneers in introducing quality cheeses to New Zealanders, and
Kikorangi became a firm favourite of consumers.
Over time the company grew significantly, and was eventually sold and
after a couple of ownership changes ended up being purchased by New Zealand
dairy giant Fonterra.
Today Kapiti is really just a brand, and the manufacture of
Kikorangi has been transferred from the Kapiti coast to the Fonterra Brands
specialty cheese factory in Eltham, Taranaki.
Some would argue that being made by a large multinational dairy company
means it is no longer an ‘artisan’ cheese.
However, at the Eltham factory a wide variety of cheeses are made by
traditional methods, and only a relatively small volume of each is made. In fact Kikorangi is made in open vats rather
than large computer controlled vats seen in larger factories, the curd is cut
by the cheese makers, and apart from a little automated help with pumping the
curd and filling the hoops, everything else including salting is done by
hand. And I think this shows in the
final product. Kikorangi is consistently
good: even an example not at its best is
a good cheese (whereas I have come across some cheeses in supermarkets that
made me wonder how they got past quality control). At its best, I think it can match a good
Stilton and can have more depth than popular European favourites such as
Gorgonzola or Roquefort.
At 41% fat (and over 60% FDM), Kikorangi is a very creamy
blue cheese. It has a pale golden colour
in the paste (helped by the beta-carotene in New Zealand milkfat that comes
from our grass) and fine dark blue veins.
Many New Zealand blue cheeses have their rinds cleaned before sale – but not Kikorangi, and this adds to both the appearance and the overall
flavour. The dark brown to light grey
mouldy rind is quite thin, and the flavour is not overpowering – it adds a
slight earthy flavour with a hint of mushrooms.
The first thing I notice when I put a piece of Kikorangi in my mouth is
the firm but creamy texture, almost like butter, that begins to melt away after
a few seconds. Then a hit of salt that
is immediately balanced by creaminess, earthiness and the blue veins, and a
sweet acidic tang to tie it all together.
We just love this cheese, and if we are not careful we can
go through a lot of it in one session.
This is the example I tasted when writing this evaluation. It is just a cheap one from "staff sales" to a Fonterra staff member but even so still tastes fantastic. |
The snack I earned whilst writing this blog post. |
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