#43 - Vigneron by Woodside Cheesewrights

In February we were on holiday on the Fleurieu Peninsula south of Adelaide.  In 42 degree heat (that's over 105 deg F for those in the USA) we took a look around the Willunga Farmers Market in the McLaren Vale (most famous for its wines).  We found a little stand selling cheeses (yes, from a refrigerator!) and were attracted by a small goat milk cheese wrapped in vine leaves.  This reminded me of the French Banon, which is also made from goats milk, but is wrapped in chestnut leaves.  I had researched a little about Banon during my studies, but have not tried it myself - so we thought we woudl try the Vigneron.

Vigneron is made by Woodside Cheesewrights, a small producer in the Adelaide Hills region.  During production it is washed in white wine, presumably before it is wrapped in the vine leaves.  There was also some white mould under the vine leaves.  As I mentioned, it looks fantastic and is beautifully presented.  I couldn't wait to try it out!

We first cut the cheese in half.  It had a pleasant goaty aroma (not like a billy goat), with a slightly earthy note form the leaves.  There was quite uneven ripening through the cheese - the bottom side was turning quite liquid, and the top half was still an acidic, unripened curd.  Although in a goats milk cheese like this the unripened acidic curd still has a nice smooth texture (where in a cow's milk cheese I would expect it to be chalky and unpleasant).  Still, the overall difference between the two parts of the cheese felt like we were eating a nicely ripened goat camembert and a fresh lactic curd cheese both in one mouthful.  

Flavour wise, the ripened part was sweet, with some mushroomy notes from the rind.  There was a distinct flavour imparted from the vine leaves, with a slight bitterness at the end.  I quite liked the overall flavour of the cheese, but my wife and father-in-law both found something in the aftertaste that they did not like - so I was able to finish the whole thing myself (not all in one go - but in two sessions). 

Overall, an interesting cheese.  Perhaps it will not suit everybody, but worth a try at least once.  To give credit to Woodside Cheesewrights, the specific cheese we tried was probably not the best example of Vigneron available, given the number of awards this cheese has won. 

New Zealand is blessed with farmhouse goats milk cheesemakers

Last week on my long drive home from the New Zealand Champions of Cheese Awards in Auckland, I visited two farmhouse cheesemakers.  I met them both at the cheese awards gala dinner, where I was lucky enough to sit at a table with not one but two champion cheesemakers.

First I dropped in at Crescent Dairy Goats in Kumeu just north of Auckland, where I tasted through the range of cheeses produced by Jan Walter from her small herd of goats.  Jan's Flat White had won Champion Original Cheese just days earlier.  In fact, she has won medals every year since  first entering in 2000.

The little farm shop and a local customer at Crescent Dairy Goats

And as I drove further south, I dropped into Jean and John van Kuyk who run Aroha Organic Goat Cheese near Te Aroha in the Waikato region.  This year Jean won Champion Cheesemaker for the highest scoring cheese in the competition (100/100 !) for her Raw Milk Rich Plain cheese.  This medium-hard cheese is New Zealand's first approved raw milk cheese, and the care, attention and procedures required to achieve that status shows through in the cheese.  When I dropped in on Jean and John they were entertaining some Dutch friends but rather than turn me away they invited me (and another couple of keen cheesemakers travelling home from the awards) to join them for tea and cake and a lively discussion in the afternoon sun.  When afternoon milking time approached, we walked down the farm to fetch the small herd of goats.  The "girls" were very friendly and made sure they got a good neck rub.

So my conclusion is that New Zealand is blessed with farmhouse cheesemakers who really care for their goats, think about what farming processes they are using, and are passionate cheesemakers.  In addition to the two above, I have previously visited Kaikoura Artisan Cheese (Canterbury) and Lonely Goat (Wanganui) - and these are no different.  I'm sure there must be more out there too.  This is fantastic, but it doesn't make it any easier for someone like myself who is trying to set up a cheese shop - somehow I have to choose between some of these cheeses!

Following the goats to the milking shed at Aroha Organic Goat Cheese