As I mentioned in my previous post, I was given a cheese on
my visit to Lonely Goat to see how it went when I looked after it at home. As best I can determine, Rae from Lonely Goat
had washed some of her medium style cheeses (about 1.2kg rounds) once or twice
with a solution containing B.linens,
and had then vacuum sealed the cheeses.
The cheeses had been made in mid august 2013, so by the time I was given
mine in December I estimate it would have spent 3 months sealed up and
refrigerated at 4°C, with no further rind development. So I was interested to see whether I could
re-establish the rind flora at home and what sort of rind would develop.
First I had to find myself a spare fridge I could operate as
a small ripening cave. Thanks to Trade
Me, I found a cheap fridge and also a temperature controller (the type used for
controlling cool rooms) so that I could select a specific ripening temperature
and have reasonable control rather relying on the fridge thermostat. Finding and purchasing these, and then giving
the fridge a really good clean took me a while, so by the time I was ready to
get the cheese out of its sealed bag and into my new ‘cave’ it was already 7
months old.
So in the middle of March 2014, I removed the cheese from
its bag, wiped it down, and put it on a rack in my fridge/cave. I started
by washing the rind every few days with a weak brine solution (about 3% salt in
a cup of boiling water, then cooled). i didn't have any B.linens culture to add to the brine, so had to hope there was still something left on the cheese surface (and in the "environment") to get a decent rind culture to develop.
|
The cheese on day 0 after the first wash. At this point it was already 7 months old but looks quite young, almost like it was recently made. |
Initially I started with a temperature of 10°C.
A day after the first wash, the rind was just tacky, I thought it was
too dry. So I put an ice cream container
of water in the fridge next to the cheese to help add moisture and keep the
humidity up.
Three days later, with another wash in between, I thought
the rind was still a bit dry, so I increased the temperature to 12°C to try and
reduce the amount of moisture condensing through refrigeration, and I also
placed a plastic cake container over the cheese to help create a high moisture
environment.
Ten days after starting, there was an obvious pink/creamy
coloured culture forming on the rind. It
was what I had been hoping for - slightly tacky to the touch, but not wet.
|
The fridge cave environment. |
|
After 10 days, a culture is developing on the rind. |
A week later, I removed the cake container as I didn't want
the cheese getting too moist, but I gave it a few more brine washes.
After a month in the fridge/cave, I stopped washing with
brine, and instead just used a damp cloth to clean up the rind and just keep it
moist. At this stage, the rind had large
areas of lighter colour which were dry, and I assumed these to be some sort of
combined growth of bacteria and mould. For
the remaining few weeks, I didn't quite give the cheese the care I should have,
what with travelling for Easter etc. A
weekly wipe was all it got.
|
After 3 weeks. |
When we cut the cheese open to taste, it was nearly 9 months
old, and had spent approximately 7 weeks in my fridge cave. The rind was dry
with flaky, powdery areas which we assumed to be minerals drawn to the rind due
to the pH rising on the surface as the rind flora grew. These powdery patches could easily be scraped
off with a knife to improve the appearance of the cheese.
|
Cheese was cut 7 weeks after we first removed it from the vacuum bag and put it in the fridge. |
The cheese was reasonably crumbly inside, so I suspect it had
lost a reasonable amount of moisture, but also the texture suggested to me that
the cheese was probably reasonably low in pH originally. However the texture was pleasant, with a
moist mouthfeel. Unfortunately I don’t
know what the cheese tasted like when I received it, so I can’t really compare
it to that. But I can describe what it was like when we had finished
ripening it. The flavour was slightly
goaty but not in an unpleasant billy goat way, and with a little contribution
from lipase activity. There was a slight bitterness. The rind tasted
slightly earthy but not “smelly”.
It was a tasty cheese, but it didn't quite all balance
together as a cheese to eat on its own – however it has been an experiment so
that is to be expected. It was very nice on a cracker with some of our
home made crabapple jelly, and was also great in a frittata and salad.